Louis yesterday. Not a ton of gear options, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer anyways. We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. There is a fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch. Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) July 17, 2017 The Tall Storey (8 pitches, 5.11c) July 12, 2017 Better Late than Never, Climbing Takakkaw Falls June 26, 2017 The plan was originally to do Athabasca, but it was cold and precipitating (lots 'o new snow) the whole week of the meeting, so instead we decided on Mt. Almost looks like the slithery skin of a python. Athabasca, I decided to turn my lens elsewhere. Howie on Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Is that a bolt you are clipping Howie?" We ended up sleeping in a bit, as we were a little bit underwhelmed by the weather forecast which was calling for possible rain or thunder storms. The Gmoser route is definitely one of the most popular routes on the peak. This route links "Ultra Brewer" with "Brewer Buttress" for a great 22 pitch line to the summit plateau. [MCR] Mt Louis / Gmoser Route Great day on Mount Louis today. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9). Plenty of good pro where the climbing does get difficult though. The Gmoser Route on Mt. Gmoser Route, Mt. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m The crux corner pitch was wet but it didn’t make the pitch any harder than the grade. The Gmoser Route on Mt. After seeing a party on the Kain route, they decided to climb the Gmoser route instead. Jun 30, 2016 . Pingback: The Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be published. louis' gmoser route? The 5.8 pitch is a solid pitch that is best done with rock shoes. ACMG. Louis at approximately 10:30 am. Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the face. The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. One of the majestic mountains in SP!! Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. Mt. Finally some sun! Take, for example, our weekend climb up [...] 15 Jul. Jim G and I enjoyed a nice day out on Mt. Almost all pitches are close to 60m in length, and most of the belays are bolted. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff National Park, and I recommend it to anyone looking for an awesome adventure in the region. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. They reached the summit just as it was getting dark. It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9. Homage to the Spider is by far the best and most adventurous line. Trad. Mount Louis. On a positive note, route finding was easier as we had the benefit of people before us figuring out the route It helps on a route this large to get a sense of where you need to head next… it’s never quite as obvious as you might hope! Judging from the summit register Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider have been getting lots of Cheers. Superb!! The crux pitch(es) both went down without any problems at all, although Jolene did feel a bit off on the first crux… fortunately it passed, and everything else was super fun and straightforward… albeit a lot longer than it seemed it would be! which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Climbing Conditions. Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM (July 7, 1932 – July 5, 2006) was a founder of modern mountaineering in Canada.Born in Austria in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing, skiing and guiding.. Mt louis Gmoser route - Duration: 9:55. They left the trailside parking lot at approximately 8:30 am and reached Mt. Updated Nov 12, 2010. edit Thanks Ray. A Night Circus. LOUIS THE GARGOYLE 5.10a, 280m Fa: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen July 08’ The route climbs up amazing water worn, stippled rock connecting crack system with long run out slabs (30m) of easy and airy climbing. Bugaboos Trip, August 2009. Out to the rocks, cheers. In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with … Route finding is tricky. Mt. RSS Feeds for Canada: Premier Sponsor: dead_milkman Jul 31, 2007, 1:09 AM Post #1 of 13 (3605 views) Shortcut Registered: Jan 1, 2003 Posts: 241: which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Mount Louis 2682m, Kain route III 5.7, Homage to Spider III 5.9, Gmoser route III 5.8; Mount Assiniboine 3618m, the North ridge II 5.5; Selkik’s & Purcell Classic. 78 Likes, 4 Comments - Stratiform Mountain Guides (@stratiform_mountainguides) on Instagram: “Mt. Louis is also home to the renowned Diamond Face, where Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie … It alone is worth the effort. The Kain route climbs the northeast face to the east ridge. Fortunately, we had a full moon that night, which made up for the unfortunate fact that both our headlamps were dying, and neither of us had the forethought to bring extra batteries. A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset! Louis - The Gmoser route climbs the center of the face while the Kain route climbs near the right hand side. The book claims 1 ½ hour to the base of Mt Louis. The Adamants Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc. Not exactly an alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it. A rappel provides access to the southeast face which is followed to the summit. The climbing itself was pretty straightforward. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. Following numerous pitches of easy climbing/difficult scrambling from the East, this route gains the imposing south face and shares the final 8 pitches or so with the Gmoser Route.The most difficult, exposed, and enjoyable climbing is at the Perren Crack (last two pitches). 1.5 hours of hiking took us to the base of the Gmoser where a number of parties were on the route just ahead of us. Learn how your comment data is processed. Dow Williams - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - Hasn't voted Re: Damn! Louis Blog postings: Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Elevation: 2682m Location: Banff, Alberta Season: Early June through late September Logistics: Climbed as a day trip from the Bow Valley or Calgary. Shaun nearing the summit on Mt. After taking approximately 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt. Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. Louis’ Gmoser route July 9. These guys are way old-school -- one of 'em started climbing in the mid 1950's. I have been up four different routes to its summit. Mt Louis from the approach trail. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Louis. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. Especially when the trail you are on has a “Grizzly bear” warning sign posted at the start of it. Barely a breeze, and perfect light. Mt Louis, Gmoser Route, Sept 2009. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. All Rights Reserved. Wow, all that rock and so little time. My Max Hang Protocol // Hangboard Progression, Bow Valley Sport Climbing Photography, 2018/2019, The Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals. This prominent peak near Banff has been attracting climbers since legendary Mountain Guide Conrad Kain led the first ascent during an "afternoon picnic" … Though there are many routes on Mt. added by Nathan Brown. We managed to get down the rappels in around ~2 hours, and started the very long descent. ... Mont Louis - Gmoser Route. Temple, Greenwood-Jones. The original route followed by MacCarthy/Kain in 1916. We then climb the Gmoser Route, a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis. I got totally pumped on this one. Rockies -- Mt Louis . Super uber-cool. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. In hindsight, our lack of an alpine start made for a very long day, for a number of reasons, but it certainly wasn’t the end of the world. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent. Your bagging peaks like crazy this summer!! louis' gmoser route? Uto and Sir Donald, Rogers Pass, July, 2009. It turns out that the top half of the mountain is still roughly… half the mountain . There’s something a little bit spooky about hiking through the forest in the dark in the middle of the night. ), Gmoser Route (5.9, FA 1964), and Homage to the Spider (5.10a, FA 1987). Pierre stemming the crux on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis . Looking down from the Perren Crack pitches, the Kain route looked to be dry. Gmoser Route (III 5.8 Multipitch) 15 pitches. Then we faced some careful route finding. Your email address will not be published. Views of the Bow Valley taken from the approach to "Homage to the Spider" The Gmoser Route. I think both of us can’t wait to get up that peak again soon… Homage to the Spider next? 2:38. Fortunately for us, no glowing eyes were seen on the trail, and we survived the whole outing only a little worse for wear, more than made up for with ear-to-ear smiles at finally ticking off the incredible Mt Louis. This route is definitely not a sport route though, requiring significant route finding and lots of hunting for gear along the way. 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(? MT. Home Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Mt Louis Gmoser Route. What a spectacular (and long) route. What a beautiful piece of rock! Mt. A great alpine climb up the East Ridge of Mount Temple. Many (many) hours of tired, thirsty slogging later, we finally made it back to the car as it was starting to get light again, sometime after 3am. It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. The pitches on the southeast face are shared with the Gmoser route. Louis! © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. 720m with gear only. Gmoser Route goes up the center of this face (Click on pictures for larger versions.) East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. Gmoser Route on Mount Louis #6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 The Gmoser route on Mt. Chris and I decided that Homage to the Spider sounded the most interesting and challenging. Keep an eye out for them as we missed the first few sets. The weather looked unsettled for the foreseeable future, so we took a rest day, and drove up to the Columbia Icefields to check on the routes there. Alpine Journals 384 views. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) ~ By Jonny Published July 17, 2017. As the day progressed, the weather held up extremely well, despite a bit of cloud forming in the mid-afternoon. Athabasca. Carl Johnston. Dave Bethell 418 … At some point, it just makes sense to go up and over the summit, than to try to backtrack. This is about 15 pitches, several are fast, and several are slow. Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff [...] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt. Mt. Gmoser Route, Mt. We touched the cross on the summit just after 9 pm in the fading daylight, lucky enough to spend one of the most serene few moments in the mountains I’ve ever experienced. Required fields are marked *. )crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis … Fortunately, we had a good description, and it ended up going off without much of a hitch. We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today. Hello all, On august 20th i met up with Jay from canadian alpine rockies guides. By the time we hit the Kain Route, it made sense to just go for it and finish up! We had a huge day onsighting this iconic limestone spire yesterday. We were originally hoping to be in the parking lot by 5am, but humming and hawing over the weather didn’t have us getting there until around 7am. Starting pitch 1. Wicked picture! In preparation for what will hopefully be a year full of alpine climbing, we decided a good way to get into shape is to get on a real alpine route as early in the season as possible. We had to set our own stations early on this route, including pitons once. Particularly the first half. Climbing can sometimes be a very surreal experience. Louis is Banff's best pure rock peak. [Prices & Booking] Mt. The crux’s are all well protected and the gear is good. Brandon P climbing the Gmoser Route on Louis. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Thanks for posting this, ray. as … A perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis. The limestone of Mount Louis is Devonian. Norquay and Cascade are visible behind. Louis a couple days ago with Shaun from Manitoba. The “Gmoser” route…” Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. Climbing the crux 5.8 pitch of the Gmoser route. 31 2007.07.28 Gmoser Route on Mount Louis Route Mike Warren 47 2006.06.21 Mount Edith (Three Summits: North, Center, South) Route Ian Hunt 19 2004.05.29 Gargoyles in the Snow - Gargoyle Valley Justin Brown 21 2002.08.24 Mount Louis Climb Steve Tober 16 2001.08.05 Edith - South Ridge of South Peak (5.4) Route Ian Hunt The Gmoser route climbs the lower slabs to a prominent corner, and then joins in with the Kain route for its upper pitches. Mt. Climbing Route - Gmoser Route. Mont Louis from the highway. Once again, a lack of an Alpine Start put us in the firing line for flying rocks, and ended up making us wait at times for a slower party just ahead of us. Despite standing at a relatively modest elevation of 2,682m (8,800′), the summit requires a long day and over 5,100′ of elevation gain from the parking lot, and the easiest route still is roughly 15 pitches of technical rock climbing. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. Next on the list is Super Brewers on Castle Mountain. Mt Louis is a local's favorite - an impressive, craggy peak but the rock (we thought) leaves something to be desired. There were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as we had the mountain to ourselves. Shaun has spent most of the summer in the Rockies and is really progressing with his climbing skills. Pumping laps on Mt. Gmoser Route, Mt. Mt.Louis gmoser route . Louis Gmoser Route (III 5.8) with Shaun. Girls Lie Pitch 3 by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin leading on the first pitch of Necromancer . Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. The Louis Rappels have a reputation for being rather tricky, and we were definitely kinda apprehensive about the fact that we were starting them in the growing dark. But everybody has left this old log alone and it is kept well protected. From my experience Jay is very good at taking the time to explain the reasons behind the decisions he is making, and potential hazards, safety tips etc. Louis with Jody & Monique to climb the Gmoser route which has a reputation for being one of the best of the classic rock routes on the peak. Gmoser route and descent were in perfect condition, descent only had the odd trickle of water. On June 29th I headed into Mt. Headed back into Mt. It is a pretty famous mountain in both climbing and non-climbing circles due partially to its prominence above the valley floor, and also due to the fact that all routes require technical rock climbing skill and gear. Louis, most of the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes: Kain Route (5.7, FA 1916! Lots of loose rock in the descent rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the summer goes on. Nice TR, and congrats on Mt Louis, looks like a very nice climb!! Mount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. Louis, a scant 6km outside of Banff. They got off-route in a couple of locations, but always managed to get back on-route. We took a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched gears and started the rappels. Jonny & Jolene Climb The Gmoser Route + The Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38. And we definitely made the right choice! Speaking of slithering, here we have Ben F on Ultra Brewers, Castle Mountain. At least we had bear spray! We met in the fireside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail. We decided to go for it, knowing that if things took a turn for the worst, we could bail anywhere on the lower half of the route without too much fuss. Oops… I guess live and learn on that one! What Can I say more?? so true...been up this beauty every which way I can Marc...starting to repeat the various routes...just love being on its summit, quite a spiritual place for me mate...cheers.